I was needing to be in Munich for two nights for meetings at not an ideal time. In the midst of Euro Cup games throughout Germany, including in Munich, hotels were heavily booked and charging rates nearly double the usual. Summer travel was also starting its swing.
The Charles Hotel Munich Review
For this stay I opted for The Charles, a Rocco Forte Hotel whose rates were even better than the distant Andaz. I had stayed here quite a few times pre-Covid and found it always excellent. While the location may not be as ideal as the Mandarin Oriental, Kempinski, or Bayerischer Hof, for some it may be more suitable given its proximity to Munich Hbf, as well being more easily accessed by car if driving.
The rate was an eye-popping €600 average per night for a standard classic room. Normally rates here are in the €350 range during previous stays but even the Andaz was getting similar rates on the same two days. The Mandarin, as another reference, was quoting over €1000 per night.
I booked via Leading Hotels of the World (LHW) which has become a decent program that I quite like with somewhat consistent upgrades, breakfast benefits, and other perks. As well the points do offer genuine value in redemptions at a number of unique hotels around the world.
I arrived by car and two doormen were immediate in taking care of my parking and escorting me to the desk. Two courteous staff members awaited and took my passport while offering Champagne and a warm towel. These actually came from a cart positioned next to the desk that is placed there every late afternoon for all guests and even included lovely little canapés. They apologized that no upgrades were available at this time given the hotel was fully booked but did find me a nice higher floor location. After explaining a few changes to the hotel since my last stay I was handed my key and proceeded to the 5th floor.
That’s when I realized that the food and beverage offerings were in a state of flux. Sophie’s, the Italian restaurant which many, including myself, adored for years was now replaced by a popup of Zuma, the “sort of” Japanese restaurant that has been sprouting up everywhere these days and popular with Europeans in places like Ibiza, Mykonos, and Capri. It’s heavy on the music and vibe and less so on the food, which I find to be a step down from even Nobu, which is not saying much. Also, what used to be the charming lounge just off the lobby was now an ad hoc small traditional dining area which served small plates and some simple soups, pasta dishes, and sandwiches.
Though my room was an entry level classic it was by European standards more than spacious and well laid out with comfortable seating throughout. It had excellent light and windows that opened for fresh air, something I crave in hotels, even during winter. There had been a refresh to the rooms since my last stay in 2019 and the furnishings were very pleasant with lovely fabrics and colors.
The bathroom was dreamy with a gorgeous tub that I utilized each night. The toilet also had an adjacent bidet. The counter was spacious with plenty of room for cosmetics. The products were from Irene Forte, the daughter of Rocco, who has become quite well known for her natural skin care offerings and branded spas at Italian Forte properties. I personally found these to be quite nice and it was interesting that each; shampoo, conditioner, body wash and moisturizer was a different type and scent.
Lighting was easy to operate throughout the room. USB ports were plentiful and well placed. A Bluetooth speaker was provided alongside the traditional books found in rooms at Forte properties. Though I wonder how many have read Tolstoy during their stay.
There was coffee service but, to my dismay, no kettle. One was brought up swiftly however, along with an iron and ironing board. A fully stocked mini bar was more than adequate and plenty of Italian bottled water was provided free of charge.
The view was on the quiet side of the property that looked out to an office building next door. There is construction going on at the alternative side, so if planning a stay here in the next few months it might be beneficial to inquire about the status. My room was very quiet, even with thousands of football fans on the street, and even with the window open at night.
Public areas were all well-kept, hallways were pleasant and filled with natural light from the outdoor atrium. Speaking of the atrium, it’s meant only as a visual garden which strangely depicted a display of large plastic pink flamingos. As I am often in the U.S. I was recently told by friends in California that pink flamingos in gardens are a secret identifier of those who embrace a swinger lifestyle. I assume the Forte family has no idea!
One part of The Charles that really stands out is the exceptional wellness center. With a fully functioning spa and a lovely array of treatments, it is one of Munich’s best. Not only a beautiful sauna but a full indoor swimming pool. As well a smaller though very well stocked fitness center with especially new equipment. The treatments were all designed using Irene Forte products and inspired by her branded spa at the Verdura Rocco Forte Resort in Sicily.
My meetings were off site and oriented around lunch, so the two nights there I utilized both the onsite restaurants for dinners. The first night I decided to anyway try Zuma, more for review purposes than an actual desire. A friend joined me that night and we shared several different dishes Izakaya style.
While the food was fine, it was more “factory” Japanese and not at all anything I would suggest or return to. The music was loud, and the vibe was more clubby than fine dining. It is also on the expensive side and priced similar to Nobu at the Mandarin Oriental (which I find to be much better). Dinner for two with one shared sake came to just over €200.
Zuma is a temporary placement and the hotel informed me that it will last only until September upon which they will unveil a new concept restaurant. I’m hoping Italian again as it has always been a hallmark of the Forte Hotels.
The next morning my complimentary breakfast as part of LHW was also in the Zuma space. A very nice buffet of standard meats, cheeses, breads, vegetables, and yogurts. There was also a menu for ordering which I took advantage of both days. The Charles was very good in honoring a wide-open breakfast including espresso drinks. In fact, since the LHW benefit is for two, a local Munich friend joined me for breakfast, and we had no bill to pay. A very nice gesture in that I even asked if it was ok if she joined me and they were fine with it.
The next night I ate in the former lobby lounge that was once the quiet corner of many small meetings with executives coming together at cocktail hour. Now it was more of a small café with food and white linen tablecloths. I again had a friend join me and we were astonished that the entire place was taken over by American families with many children. Not that this is a bad thing, just an observation as to what was in my memory a very discreet business-oriented bar in the past. Although, it is summer, and as I know living in Vienna that means the American holiday travelers will be fast arriving.
At the “bar” I enjoyed a wonderful soup and pasta along with an aperitif of a refreshing Negroni which had a slice of orange with an odd coloring and flavor that, to me, was a bit awkwardly placed – though I guess a nice touch visually. Overall, the food was of very good quality and reminded me of the old Sophie’s that used to be so popular. A few of their better pasta dishes were carried over.
One thing I noticed though for women travelers is that the elevators, though having a key access, were never required during my stay. Anyone could use the elevators to access guest room floors. It could be that this is only utilized late at night, but with so many higher end properties implementing this added security 24/7 it seemed a bit out of sync with current trends. Not that I ever felt unsafe, but it seemed a tad yesterday in today’s world.
Lastly, I was far more astonished when I went to the front desk upon leaving for a lunch meeting to let them know that housekeeping could clean my room now. Of course, being in Munich, I asked this in German. I was met with the response, “I’m sorry, can you speak English please?” Certainly, times are changing.
Overall, I would highly recommend The Charles. Perhaps not at these rates unless when faced with a huge demand in the city when everything is expensive. The property has a nice balance of being positioned within walking distance of the old town but slightly removed. Some may not like the position near the Hbf, while others will. It does benefit as well in being next to the Englischer Garten which can make for some gorgeous afternoon strolls. All in all, when combined with LHW amenities and points, it’s at the top of my Munich hotel list.
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